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November 25, 2018
Free Crochet Pattern – Star Posy Table Runner
Hello. I’ve been busy trying to organise my WIPs to give myself time for all those gorgeous Christmas makes. There’s always so much going on this time of year that I always opt for smaller crochet projects. So in that spirit, I’m sharing my pattern for this simple crochet table runner. I designed this pattern earlier this year for the 100th issue of Inside Crochet Magazine and received such lovely feedback on it…
{25.11.18}
It’s the perfect project to decorate for any celebration. I’m currently making one up with some sparkle yarn for our Christmas table…eek not long now!
The table runner is a join-as-you-go project so is easily adaptable to any size table. You can pick and choose your colour combinations to suit, although I would recommend sticking to cotton Dk for this project (for ease of washing).
I’ve popped some photos to help guide you if you are new to crochet and have created an inexpensive ad free pdf if, like me, you prefer to print your patterns out. (the pdf also includes a colour chart for the runner shown here). I feel like the pattern may look a bit complicated, but the star is only three rounds and once you start joining the motifs (with slip stitches through the picots) it really is very instinctive.
Star Posy Table Runner
Yarn:
Paintbox cotton DK, 100% cotton, 50g/125m/137yd, shades:
Yarn A: Light Champagne (403) 220g
Yarn B: Peach Orange (455) 5g
(C) Bright Peach (412) 5g
(D) Mandarin Orange (418) 5g
(E) Lipstick Pink (452) 5g
(F) Blush Pink (454) 5g
(G) Buttercup Yellow (423) 5g
Yarn Alternatives:
You can use any DK weight cotton to achieve a similar effect, mix and match the colours of the centre or simply create the stars in one colour.
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Gauge: Each Star Motif should measure approx. 10cm across from point to point using a 4mm hook.
Measurements: Finished table runner should measure approx. 28cm x 120cm (11” x 42”)
Stitches / Abbreviations used:
st(s) – stitch(es)
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
dc – double crochet (US = sc)
htr – half treble (US = hdc)
tr – treble (US = dc)
dtr – double treble (US = tr)
Special stitches:
Tr2Cl (Treble Two Cluster stitch ) = Yrh, insert hook into next sp, yrh, pull up a loop, yrh, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yrh, insert hook into same sp, yrh, pull up a loop, yrh, pull through two loops (3 loops on hook), yrh pull through all 3 loops.
Tr3Cl (Treble Three Cluster Stitch) = Yrh, insert hook into next sp, yrh, pull up a loop, yrh, pull through two loops (2 loops on hook) *yrh, insert hook into same sp, yrh, pull up a loop, yrh and pull through two loops (3 loops on hook, rep from * once more (4 loops on hook) yrh and pull through all 4 loops
Picot = 3ch, sl st into first ch made (or into top of st directly below – see photos)
Pattern Notes:
*Pattern is written in UK terms – see above for US stitches*
The table runner is made of a total of 31 motifs that are joined as you work them in the third round of each motif, joining one row of motifs at a time. When joining a motif to two that are already joined, join through the original chain 3-picot.
Pattern:
Row A
First Motif:
Using yarn B, 5ch, join with a sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: (working into the ring) 2ch (counts as 1tr), tr2cl (first cluster made), *2ch, tr3cl; repeat from * four more times, 2ch, join with a sl st to top of first cluster. (6 clusters)
Join yarn A to any 2ch-space
Rnd 2: 2ch, (tr2cl, 2ch, tr3cl) in same sp, 1ch, *(tr3cl, 2ch, tr3cl, 1ch) into next ch2-sp; repeat from * four more times, join with a sl st to top of first cluster.
Rnd 3: 1ch, *1dc in top of cluster, (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, picot, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) into 2ch-sp, 1dc in top of cluster, sl st into 1ch-sp; repeat from * five more times, join with sl st to first dc of rnd.
Second and subsequent Motifs of Row A:
Repeat Rnds 1 & 2 as first motif
Rnd 3: Work four points of star as first motif, work fith and sixth points as follows:
*1dc in top of cluster (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1ch, join with a sl st into picot of previous motif, 1ch, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) into ch-2sp, 1dc in top of cluster, sl st into ch-1 sp; repeat from * for next join
Finish motif by joining with a sl st to first dc of rnd.
Continue joining two points of each motif to the last motif worked until you have 10motifs in a row A
Row B:
First Motif: Work as Second motif from Row A, joining at two points to the first star of Row A.
Second and subsequent Motifs of row B:
Repeat Rnds 1 & 2 as first motif
Rnd 3: Work two points of star as first motif, work rest of points as follows:
You will now be joining to Row A as well as to the previous motif worked
*1dc in top of cluster (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1ch, join with a sl st into picot of motif to be joined, 1ch, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) into ch-2sp, 1dc in top of cluster, sl st into next ch-1 sp; repeat from * for next join
Finish motif by joining with a sl st to first dc of rnd.
Continue joining four points of each motif to the last motif worked until you have 11motifs in a row B
Row C:
Work as Second motif from Row B, joining at three points to the first and second star of Row B.
Second and subsequent Motifs of row C:
Repeat Rnds 1 & 2
Rnd 3: Work one point of star as first motif, work rest of points as follows you:
You will now be joining to Row B as well as to the previous motif worked.
*1dc in top of cluster (1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1ch, join with a sl st into picot of motif to be joined, 1ch, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr) into ch-2sp, 1dc in top of cluster, sl st into 1ch-sp; repeat from * for next join
Finish motif by joining with a sl st to first dc of rnd.
Continue joining five points of each motif to the last motif worked and the two above until you have 10 motifs in a row C.
Weave in ends and Block.
I hope you enjoy! If you do make one please feel free to share using the hashtag #Lululovescrochet on Instagram so I can see them.
Bye for now, Em x
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